Mammut Bionic Carabiner Review (HMS & Mythos)
Love me some Mammut, love me some Swiss.
Bottom line is the Swiss make great products and Mammut has been around since 1862. That’s almost 150 years folks! That’s a long time, they know a little something about climbing mountains.
I was in the market for some new climbing equipment and this past month purchased a few new carabiners from Mammut.
Now carabiners I typically consider to be an ancillary piece of equipment. I would typically never write a review about a carabiner, its like writing a review about a shoelace, but these carbiners are worth it…trust me.
So first off, these are “Bionic” and what that basically means is “light.” To elaborate, they are the lightest carabiners I have ever held and utilize something called i-beam technology. For the type of climbing I do, weight is not a big deal, but for people doing big wall climbs and multi-pitch trad climbing…it ads up and these are great. That said, they are also probably the best looking biners I have ever seen as well.
The HMS carabiner is on the left in this picture and the Mythos is on the right. I’ll give you the specifics on each below.
The Mythos has an interesting bow on the backside of the carabiner that keeps it streamlined and small. While still suitable for alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing the mythos is a smaller version of the larger HMS. The only draw back we have seen is that it may not work with some of the larger figure 8′s for rappelling purposes, but worked fine using our vader light belay device as seen in the picture.
The HMS biner is a great all around clip to have in your rack. It’s big enough for all your day to day needs including your rappelling gear, even the larger figure 8′s. While still incredibly light, the HMS may be the best of both worlds carabiner you have been looking for.
Both carabiners are available in screwlock and twist locking gates. I prefer the screwgate personally, but to each his own.